Art of Patrón: Gold Dipped Bottles

Just over a month ago, I posted about the Art of Patrón contest centered around the creative reuse of Patrón tequila bottles. Examples of previous entries were beautiful, elaborate crafts (chandeliers, goblets, clocks, etc.), but I've been on a really simplistic craft-kick lately. I've been super busy with school (FINALLY DONE, YAYY!) so any quick craft has been my bread and butter. ;) 

I came up with this craft idea while I was sitting in class one day. Honestly, it seemed kind of obvious, but I liked it anyway. I had been wanting to try out Pebeo porcelaine paint for a little while and this seemed like the perfect opportunity. I love how they turned out... So subtly elegant, right?! 

Stuff you'll need:

Patrón bottles (found mine on eBay), Pebeo porcelaine 150, square tupperware container (larger than your bottles), cookie sheet covered in wax paper

Pour your paint into the tupperware container (I used two jars of paint, but had more than one left over). Carefully dip your bottles in the paint, tipping the tupperware if needed to get the paint higher on each side of the bottle. Let the excess paint drip off into the tupperware for a minute or so, and Place the bottles upside down on the cookie sheet. You need to keep an eye on them, as the paint may drip down the sides. I actually ended up placing the bottles right-side up on top of some old metal tealights to hold them off the cookie sheet, but you do what you feel is best. ;) After 24 hours, place your bottles in a cold oven and bake at 350° for 35 minutes. Then wedge your tapers into the bottles and you've got yourself some stylin' candle holders! 

Did any of you make some upcycled Patrón bottles? If so, be sure to enter the Art of Patrón contest by April 30th! Wouldn't these be gorgeous for a centerpiece or a wedding?

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The Art of Patrón

A couple of weeks ago, I was contacted about a craft/art contest sponsored by Patrón tequila, and I am so excited to tell you about it! 

Admittedly, I'm not a big tequila drinker. I prefer whiskey, rum, or even bourbon, but that's beside the point. Despite my ambivalence toward tequila, I am a fan of Patrón. Patrón comes in beautifully crafted hand blown  glass bottles that are in themselves small works of art. I've always wanted to take a glass blowing class... But again, that's a story for another day. ;)

So what's the deal with the contest? Well, artists and crafters age 21 and up are invited (and encouraged!) to reuse and re-imagine Patrón bottles (or any part of a bottle) into artwork or a functional item.  Ten finalists will be selected to win a cash prize, and one grand finalist will win $10,000!

All you've gotta do is make something, write up a brief description, submit it to www.artofpatron.com and cross those fingers! And for you non-tequila drinkers, you can even buy empty bottles on ebay. How easy does that make things? ;)

So what do you say? Wanna play with pretty bottles with me?! Submissions are due April 30th!

**All images via www.artofpatron.com

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Storage Ottoman DIY

I love crafts. I love DIY. My biggest DIY crush? Furniture redoing/making. I can't get enough. It takes every fiber of my being to keep myself from "rescuing" every tossed out piece of furniture I see along the side of the road {boyfriend, friends, and family frown upon my frequent adoption of such items}.

I am currently in the process of replacing my hand-me-down couch, and wanted a new coffee table or ottoman to replace my cheap and wobbly IKEA table that I broke in college a few years ago. I trolled Pinterest for a while, and stumbled upon my inspiration: A coffee table constructed from four basic crates by DIY Vintage Chic! I was completely smitten with this deceivingly simple design. Even boyfriend liked the idea, and that boy is hard to please.

I loved the storage capacity and the fact that it was on casters, but I really needed something boyfriend could put his feet on... Because he could not keep his feet off my old coffee table {which drove me a little crazy}. So, again, I needed something sturdy and foot-friendly. Thus, I added an upholstered top to make this coffee table an ottoman!

Now, prepare yourself... This post has a LOT of step-by-step photos... And no full supplies photo {my bad, guys!}. BUT, I promise, this project is not difficult. If you can handle a drill {trust me, you can}, and a staple gun {easy-peasy}, you can do this project!

Here's what you'll need:
To build: {4} wooden crates, {2} 8' 2x4s (or other beam wood), {4} 2" casters w/screws, {8} corner brackets w/screws, {12} 1.25" wood screws, {4} 2.5" wood screws, {4} 1" wood screws, drill w/drill bit & driving bit

To upholster: sheet of mahogany underlayment (or other sheet wood that is NOT plywood), 2"-thick foam, polyester batting, upholstery fabric of your choosing {note: materials amounts depend upon the size of your crates, but you need enough to cover your table}, heavy duty staple gun w/staples, {5} make-to-match buttons, polyester upholstery cord, upholstery needles, scissors, yardstick/tape measure

To paint: semi-gloss paint+primer of your choosing, paint brush, drop cloth

**I got my crates from Michael's using those wonderful 50%-off coupons, so my crates were less than $7 a piece (gotta love coupons!). They each measured 9.5" deep x 18" long, and I will be using those measurements throughout the post. If you use different crates, be sure to adjust your measurements accordingly.

Build the Structure:

1. Arrange your crates like so: Place one crate on the floor/work surface so that the opening is facing down. Place a second crate on top of the first crate so that the handle-end is down towards the floor, against the back of the first crate. Make sure the edges of second crate are flush with the first. 
2. Drill three pilot holes {in the arrangement shown} big enough for your screws using your drill bit. This will help prevent wood-splitting. You are drilling into the handle-end of the second crate (through to the back of the first crate), towards the floor. 
3. Drive 3 1.25" screws (into your pilot holes) through the two crates with your driving bit, securing the second crate to the first. 
4. Rotate your crates so that the open end of the second crate is facing downward, arrange a third crate on top of the second just as you did before, and secure the two together with screws. Repeat for the fourth crate. Rotate a final time and secure the first crate to the fourth, so that all crates are secured. Your final arrangement is shown in Photo #4, looking down at the crates. 
5. Using your 2x4s, build a base frame. **I had my 2x4s cut at Home Depot, so if you don't have a saw, that's an option! Both Lowes and Home Depot do complimentary cuts, just tell them what size pieces you need! I used 2 pieces that were the full length of the table (9.5" + 18" = 27.5") and 3 pieces that would fit between those pieces. To figure out that measurement, multiply the width of the boards by 2 (since there are 2 boards), and subtract that number from the length of the table (27.5"). In this case, a 2x4 is about 3.5" wide, so 3.5" x 2 = 7", and 27.5" - 7" = 20.5".** So, you'll need 2 pieces @ 27.5" and 3 @ 20.5". 
6. Arrange your pieces in a square with long pieces opposite one-another and short pieces opposite one-another, making sure that the ends of the long pieces are flush with the edges of the short pieces. Using your drill, corner brackets and screws, attach the boards at each inside corner as seen above. Screws should drill into the soft pine boards relatively easily, although you may need to tap them gently with a hammer to get them started. 
7. In the pictures above, my frame is a simple square, but for added support or stability, I added a third short-piece (20.5") across the middle. I used a counter-sinking drill bit and long wood screws, but for ease and consistency, you can use 4 more corner brackets to attach this center beam to the 2 outside pieces it will line-up with. 
8. This step is two-fold: Attach the frame to the crates and add your casters. First, with your table upside down on the floor, align your frame with the crates (shown in Photo #5). Be sure your frame is flush with each corner, and drill a pilot hole in each corner with your drill bit; you are drilling through the 2x4 and into the underside of the crate. Insert your 2.5" screws into your pilot holes and drive screws through the frame, into the crates (screw is shown next to the caster in Photo #8). Now place a caster in each corner and attach to the frame using screws (if no screws were provided, use screws ~1" long). 

At this point, your table will look like this! The original post from DIY Vintage Chic stained the wood and made a small "crate" for the middle to fill with wine corks. If you like this look, finish it off with paint, stain, or a simple sealant! Just beware that it is not foot-friendly. As soon as I got to his point, boyfriend had his feet up on the top of the crates and the wood was visibly bowing... Not a good sign (I told you he can't keep his feet off my tables). So, on to the upholstery!

Upholster a Top:

1. You will need a thin sheet of wood for your top. I originally tried plywood because it's super cheap, but it was so hard that all my staples were buckling... So I found a sheet of (even cheaper) mahogany underlayment over by the molding at Home Depot. I had the 4'x4' sheet cut and ripped into a 28" square at the store. This way, I would have a little bit of overhang on my finished ottoman. Purchase enough foam to cover your wood (the foam at Joanns was only 24" wide, so I had to supplement with 3" of extra foam and a little polyester fiberfill), and piece it together on top of the wood sheet. 
2. Using a yardstick or tape measure, draw your diagonals (from corner to corner) across the foam with a marker. Where the diagonals meet is your center. Measure out 5" from the center towards all 4 sides and mark an "x."
3. Using scissors and your fingers, dig out a little hole in the foam at the center and at each "x" (the "x" still visible in Photo #3 was mismeasured). 
4. Lay two layers of batting over your foam so that there is enough overhang on each side to staple it to the underside of the wood. Carefully and quickly flip your wood, foam, and batting over, so that the whole top is upside down but still aligned. Staple your batting around the perimeter of the wood sheet, working opposite sides in sequence (left side, then right side // then top, then bottom) and pulling the batting tight. For more pointers, refer to this earlier post: DIY Upholstered Trunk. Finally, repeat the process in step 2 on your wood sheet, and drill small pilot holes at the center and the 4 x's. I have circled these holes in Photo #4 as they were difficult to see, and sketched the diamond tufting pattern we are creating as well. 
5. Flip your top over again so that the batting is facing you. Feel around the batting/foam with your fingers to find the holes you dug out previously. Use your scissors and fingers to push the batting down into the holes as much as possible, cutting some batting out if necessary. Push your long upholstery needle through the hole from the wood-side to verify that the hole in the wood matches up with the hole in the batting/foam and make any necessary adjustments. Again, I've circled these holes in Photo #5. 
6. Cover your buttons in your upholstery fabric by following the instructions on your button package.  Thread a piece of polyester cord {about 16" for plenty of slack} through your button. Next, thread BOTH ENDS of the cord through your needle as shown in Photo #6. Drape your fabric over the batting so that it is square with the top and there is excess on each side for stapling. Locate the holes in the batting/foam with your finger, and push your upholstery needle through the fabric, through the hole in the batting/foam, and through the hole in the wood. **Note: Finding the hole in the wood may be tricky... I stabbed myself about a zillion times and it took quite a while... Try to push the needle through the batting as straight and perpendicular to the wood as possible, and wiggle it around to find the predrilled hole in the top. Be patient and careful!
7. When you have pulled your cord through the hole in the wood, push the button against the wood as hard as you can with your dominant hand {my right hand}, and simultaneously pull the cord as tight as you can with your opposite hand {my left}. Then quickly grab your staple gun and staple the cord down in a zig-zag pattern as shown in Photo #7, keeping the cord pulled as tight as possible. Repeat steps 6 & 7 for each button. 
8. When all your buttons are secured, flip the top over and make sure the fabric is tufted and pleated to your liking between the buttons. Then flip the top back over and staple your fabric down around the perimeter just as you did your batting. Again, refer to my earlier upholstery post for my details: DIY Upholstered Trunk.

Now your table has become an ottoman! Make sure your lid fits and is lovely. I actually like the look of the unfinished wood, but the couch I'm planning will be painted, so I wanted the ottoman to match. So... Painting!

Finish the Ottoman:

1. Lay down a drop cloth to protect your work surface. I learned this trick from my mom a long, long time ago: Use a vinyl table cloth as a drop cloth. The vinyl will act as a plastic drop cloth, but it's less slippery and flimsy, and in this case, had a cotton-back that stuck to the carpet and kept it from sliding all over!
2. Brush your paint into all the crevasses that will show. I didn't bother painting the top, bottom, or middle of the ottoman, as those surfaces wouldn't be visible. I only did one coat, because I wanted a less-than perfect finish, but paint according to your preference. 
3. Once paint is dry, trim excess fabric and cording ends off of your top and lay it upside down on the floor. Carefully flip your crates upside down on top of the upholstered top, lining up the corners as best you can {keeping in mind the slight overhang}. 
4. At each corner, drive a 1" wood screw through the top of the crate down into the wood sheet of the top, using your drill. If you have trouble with the wood splitting, back your screw out and drill pilot holes.

Flip the whole thing right-side-up and admire your work! Then start filling it with all kinds of goodies... Books, magazines, project boxes, decor... Fill that baby up! 

But seriously, look at that! A totally doable, custom furniture piece that boyfriend can put his feet on! :) If you give this a try, I'd love to see! 

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Furniture Facelift: Ornate Table

I'm thinking of making this a series of sorts: Furniture Facelifts. Because truth be told, a large percentage of my "crafty DIYs" are really about how I saved some abandoned, ugly piece of furniture and gave it new life. 

Take this table. I found it in the upstairs storage area of my stepdad's business and begged him to let me have it. It was his grandmother's, so it took some convincing, but eventually he handed it over. I began the project in my pre-blogging days, so I don't have a before picture. Just imagine the table all wood instead of white {it has one coat of primer in the above photos}.

This table has great details. Which are beautiful, but also incredibly difficult to sand. So I discovered an amazing product -- liquid sandpaper! Or deglosser {a way less cool name}. You basically rub that all over and it removes the glossy layer on something, helping the paint/primer adhere better. So I did that.  

Then I used spray primer allllll over this baby. The spray primer was able to get into all the nooks and crannies in a way that a paint brush would not have really been able too. 

A couple coats of primer later, I added a few coats of white satin spray paint. I use Krylon brand from Michael's {equipped with a trigger attachment} because it's the best. But that's just personal preference. ;) Finally, I sprayed a couple coats of polyurethane all over for added durability. And that's it!

I love the crisp white, the contrast between the new paint and old style. Now I have a bright and fresh looking table. It always amazes me what a difference a simple coat of paint can make. ♥

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Furniture Facelift: DIY Upholstered Trunk

Are you ready for the easiest upholstery project ever? Good. Because this is it. 

I found this trunk at a thrift store. Four years ago... And it's taken this long for anything to happen to it... But that's another story for another time. Anyway, I found this baby for less than $5. Of course, that could have been because of the completely busted lid, but who's to say? So she needed a new lid. So with the help of my stepdad and grandfather, eventually, one was made.

As you can see, the wood of the lid doesn't exactly match the wood of the rest of the trunk. So what's a girl to do?! Turn it into a cushy ottoman/bench/trunk of course! And it could not be easier. Okay, it probably could, but this is pretty easy as is, trust me.

**you also might want a hammer!**

I removed the lid from the trunk for the upholstering process and reattached the hinges after I was done.

I think it goes without saying that you want your foam to match the size of your trunk lid, and of course you want enough batting and fabric to cover the lid as well. In this case, my lid was about 2' x 3', so 1 yd. of 54" upholstery fabric was plenty, and one package of batting was sufficient as well. Words of wisdom: don't pay full price for this stuff! Joanns and Hobby Lobby put their home decor fabric on sale pretty regularly, so hold out for sale prices. Same goes for the batting. The foam doesn't really go on sale, but the stores put out "40% off one item" coupons pretty much weekly, and you can use that on one cut of foam, one cut of fabric, etc. So don't pay full price!

Place your foam on top of your lid, lining up the edges. Drape your batting over the foam; the more layers, the cushier it will be. I used four layers. (Note: I don't really use batting in my day-to-day life, so I was pretty generous with my layers and didn't worry about conserving the leftovers. Hence the large overhang of material on the sides. You can be more precise if you like.)

Drape your fabric over the batting. Tip: It's easier to drape all this with the lid off the ground; I put the lid across the trunk for this process.

Carefully flip the whole lid, fabric and all, upside-down and onto the floor. Being cautious not to pull too hard, begin stapling the fabric and batting to the wood so that it is taut across the lid. Staple opposite sides rather than around (that is, do the right side and then the left, rather than right, bottom, left, top), pulling as you go. When stapling, be sure to keep the staple gun square on the wood rather than titled one way or the other, or the staples may not really go into the lid. You may want to hammer your staples as you work as well to ensure that they are firmly in place through the layers of fabric and batting (I hammered all of mine).

Fold the corners of the fabric and batting up, being careful of the pleating, and staple in place. You may need to trim away excess batting to make this process easier.

Trim away the excess fabric and batting. Check to see that the fabric is secure and add more staples as needed. 

Reattach to your trunk, and voila! A newly upholstered cushy trunk, perfect to put your feet on and store your extra pillows and blankets inside!

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Dresser Facelift, Please & Thanks!

As I've mentioned before, I love free things. Never turn down free things, I say! Unless you know, they're totally gross. But this is about a dresser! A dresser I found abandoned in my cousin's garage. Evidently, the dresser had been there for years, but it was still full of clothes and all sorts of things. But this dresser had potential...

Unfortunately, this project began before my brand new blog, and I failed to snap a true "before" picture. The first picture I have of the dresser was taken just after I removed the drawers, took a belt sander to the top and rubbed the rest of the dresser with liquid sandpaper. Let me paint you a picture: it looked just like this, but shinier.

Thanks to my amateur photography skills, the dresser looks like it gets wider towards the top, but I promise that it doesn't. It is wide though... Like, I can fit THREE stacks of jeans in one drawer... THREE! I'm used to two stacks with some skirts shoved into the remaining crevasse. 

So as I mentioned before, I took a belt sander to the top of this bad boy. But that was a bad plan. A giant pain in the rear, and the results sucked. But then I found out about LIQUID SANDPAPER! What's liquid sandpaper, you ask? It's just a liquid... That you rub all over the furniture... And it removes the glossy layer so that paint and primer will adhere better! So I did that... Then I painted the whole darn thing with a paint+primer in one satin enamel from Home Depot.

I used a small roller on the majority of the piece, but I used a brush for all the detail work of course. 

Note to self: Don't let boyfriends pick out paint colors! I wanted a grey... And this paint is blue. Some suggested that I just repaint the whole thing grey, but I mean... That'd be like, a lot more work, right? 

So blue it is. I'll make it work! One coat of paint + some touch-ups later:

Ta-da!

Did you notice something off about the finished product? Like say... That the knobs don't match? I know, right?! Genius, if I say so myself. Just kidding, but really, I went shopping for pretty pretty knobs at Hobby Lobby and I could not find 12 of the same knobs! And I did NOT want to wait for some to come in. So I opted for mismatched knobs! But they're not totally mismatched. They're all crystal! Well, faux crystal. Some match... Like, a couple. 

Regardless, the transformation is amazing. I rescued her form the garage, vacuumed out countless spiders and their webs (yikes!) but it was so worth it! One last look at the finished product: 

What do you think? What would you have done differently? Do the mismatched knobs drive you nuts? ...do they drive you nuts in a GOOD way?? ;) 

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